Want to discover Tunisia’s rich cultural heritage and Roman legacy? Then look no more. On this itinerary we put together our thoughts on our visit to Kairouan and El Jem.
Find out why Kairouan is considered the fourth holiest city in Islam and see the world’s best persevered Roman Amphitheatre in El Jem.
1. How to Get to Kairouan and El Jem from Hammamet
Travelling to Kairouan and El Jem can be done in a day trip. Typically hotel pick up will be at 8-9am and you will come back by 5-6pm. We check many trips online and found a few on Getyourguide, one of which we suggest below:
Another thing you could consider as a means of transport is choosing a private tour. They come around about to the same price (not sure why?) but offer the comfort and flexibility that comes with just exploring on your own.
This is the option we chose and felt that it was the best way to explore these 2 attractions. Whilst not many travel agencies as we have experienced in Alanya or Sharm El Sheikh, we found a few providers for such trips.
If you are based in Hammamet (or nearby) we recommend Hedi Missaoui as we believe he offers a good experience and also is flexible when organising these trips, catering for any stop requests.
Below you will find his contact details, alternatively, you will find him in the roundabout by the old medina in Hammamet.
When considering such a trip, particularly if you will be based in the northern coastal resorts, be ready for the heat and bring lots of water. Kairouan particularly can reach 50 degrees Celsius.
2. Morning in Kairouan
2.1. Overview of Kairouan
Kairouan, founded in 670 AD by the Umayyad general Uqba ibn Nafi, is considered one of the most important cities in Islamic history. It was established during the early period of the Arab Muslim expansion into North Africa, serving as a strategic military base and a center for Islamic learning and culture.
The city’s medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is another testament to its rich history, with winding alleyways, traditional houses, and bustling souks that have remained largely unchanged for centuries.
Religious Significance
Kairouan holds a revered place in the Islamic world and is often referred to as the “Fourth Holiest City of Islam” after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem.
The city’s Great Mosque, also known as the Mosque of Uqba, is a major pilgrimage site. It is said that seven pilgrimages to Kairouan are equivalent to one pilgrimage to Mecca. This has made the city a crucial destination for devout Muslims throughout the centuries.
2.2. Top Attractions in Kairouan
2.2.1. Pay your Respects at the Great Mosque of Kairouan
The Great Mosque of Kairouan, also known as the Mosque of Uqba, is an architectural marvel and a symbol of Islamic heritage. Built in 670 AD by Uqba ibn Nafi, the mosque has undergone several restorations and expansions over the centuries, but it retains its original grandeur and historical significance.
The porticoes are supported by intricately carved columns, many of which were repurposed from earlier Roman and Byzantine structures, showcasing a blend of cultural influences.
One of the most striking features of the Great Mosque is its massive square minaret, which stands as one of the oldest in the world. Rising to a height of approximately 31.5 meters (103 feet), the minaret served both as a visual and auditory beacon, calling the faithful to prayer.
Its robust and austere design reflects the early Islamic architectural style and has influenced the design of minarets across the Islamic world.
The Great Mosque has played a pivotal role in the history of Islam in North Africa. It served as a center for religious education and scholarship, attracting scholars from across the Muslim world.
The mosque’s library was once one of the most important in the Islamic world, housing a vast collection of manuscripts and texts on various subjects.
Non-Muslims are typically allowed to enter the courtyard and view the prayer hall from the outside, providing a unique opportunity to appreciate the mosque’s architectural and artistic beauty.
It is advisable to dress modestly, women to have their head covered and respect the sanctity of the site during your visit.
Tickets you will be able to buy them at the entrance and they cover all the sites in Kairouan, so make sure you keep the tickets safe.
We found the experience in the Mosque to be interesting and with a lot of significance, contrasting the historical importance. It’s a great place to understand a bit more about Arab and Islamic legacy.
2.2.2. Get lost in the Kairouan Medina
We really enjoyed walking on the cobble stones in the Medina and learning about the various Berber houses and doors. As it turns out, a house’s door can tell a lot about it’s residents depending on the design, handle bars and other elements.
As an example, a house can have 1 door nob, signifying that only 1 family lives here. Moreover, if the door has a smaller door built in, it suggests that this family has a child.
Walking through the Medina gives one a great chance to also see the many family run mosques, very similar in size to say a chapel in the Christendom. The streets, although not particularly well maintained, offer a glimpse into every day life of the locals.
The city seems to be renowned for their carpets and hence you will also see many carpet shops, with shop-owners inviting you to review their merchandise.
As we were walking thought the colourful streets we also had the pleasure to check out a local bakery and it was a great experience to see how they go through the many stages from kneading to baking.
At the end we even tried one of their freshly baked breads which was another great experience in itself.
Overall, we think it’s good to check out the Medina and even sit down for a cup of tea and watch the locals go by.
2.2.3. Drink Water from the Original Water Well at Bir Barouta
Legend has it that this is where a local dog found this place and people managed to dig up a fountain. This is when they built Kairouan around this well in 670 AD.
You go up the stairs to a poorly lighten up room where you are met by a camel and the camel caretaker. They offer you to drink water and make the camel walk around to show you how the noria works.
At the end of this experience they will point you to the tip box, we left a few coins but not sure why upon further reflection.
The experience is a bit weird and cringe.
2.2.4. Admire the Tiles at The Zaouia of Sidi Sahabi
The Zaouia of Sidi Sahabi, also known as the Mausoleum of Sidi Sahabi, is a significant religious and cultural landmark in Kairouan. It is dedicated to Abu Zamaa al-Balaoui, a companion of the Prophet Muhammad, who is affectionately referred to as Sidi Sahabi.
Built in the 7th century and expanded in the 17th century by the Ottoman ruler Hammuda Pasha, the zaouia (Islamic religious school and shrine) has been a site of pilgrimage and reverence for centuries.
As you enter the Zaouia, you are immediately struck by the vibrant and intricate tile work that adorns the walls, floors, and even the mihrab (prayer niche).
These tiles, known as zellij, are made from glazed terracotta and are meticulously cut and arranged to form elaborate geometric patterns and floral motifs.
The Zaouia of Sidi Sahabi is a jewel of Kairouan, offering visitors a chance to admire some of the finest examples of Islamic tile work. The zellij tiles, with their intricate patterns and vibrant colours, are not just decorative elements but also embodiments of the spiritual and artistic traditions of the region.
To top it all up, you will be met by quite a few cats who will be spread around and looking for tourists to pet them.
3. Afternoon in El Jem
As we make our way to El Jem to see the world’s best preserved Roman Amphitheatre, we observe the Tunisian country side. You will often see eateries on the road, with hanging animals and other waiting in line for the same fate.
It’s not a very uncommon sight as this is the way people choose their cut of meat, following this the owner, cuts it and grills it.
Perhaps not something we would like to try especially in the 40 plus degrees.
Reaching El Jem is a very easy drive from Kairouan and offers a good perspective of how life is for local Tunisians.
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Lunch in El Jem at Restaurant El Hana
As we felt Hungry o’clock was coming we decided to have a lunch with the El Jem Amphetheatre as our view. There are plenty of places to eat in El Jem but the most rewarding ones would be by the site itself.
There are 2 main restaurants as of 2024 with a front view however, we chose El Hana as it offered a good view, hospitable owner and great food.
I tried the lamb chops and Hristina tried the chicken skewers. Both came with fries, salad, bread and various local traditional dips.
My lamb chops were divine, and the chicken wasn’t bad either. Both were very well marinated and cooking on the grill in front of you added even more to the wonderful experience.
3.1. Marvel at the El Jem Roman Amphitheatre
The El Jem Roman Amphitheatre, also known as the Amphitheatre of Thysdrus, is one of the most impressive and well-preserved Roman ruins in the world. Built in the early 3rd century AD during the reign of Emperor Gordian, it stands as a testament to the grandeur and engineering prowess of the Roman Empire.
El Jem, known as Thysdrus in ancient times, was a prominent Roman city in the province of Africa Proconsularis, and the amphitheatre was a symbol of its prosperity and significance.
The El Jem Amphitheatre is a magnificent example of Roman architecture and engineering. It is the largest Roman colosseum in North Africa and one of the largest in the entire Roman Empire, with dimensions that rival those of the Colosseum in Rome.
The amphitheatre measures approximately 148 meters in length, 122 meters in width, and 36 meters in height, with a seating capacity estimated to be between 35,000 and 40,000 spectators.
In 1979, the El Jem Amphitheatre was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its historical, architectural, and cultural significance. The designation has helped to protect and preserve the site, ensuring that future generations can appreciate this remarkable monument of the ancient world.
Today, the El Jem Amphitheatre is one of Tunisia’s most popular tourist attractions, drawing visitors from around the world. It serves as a powerful reminder of the Roman Empire’s legacy in North Africa and provides a fascinating glimpse into the past.
Exploring the amphitheatre almost transported us back in Rome and reminded us of the Colosseum. It’s a wonderful experience and very interestingly very few tourists do come here considering this significance of this site.
The top also provides an excellent vista of El Jem itself and is a great way to admire this archaeological site in all its splendour. We also suggest you have plenty of water and a hat on to cover yourself from the sun as during the afternoon it can get pretty harsh.
Similarly to Kairouan, for the entrance you will get 1 ticket which covers both the amphitheatre and the Museum, so make sure you keep a hold of it whilst in El Jem.
3.2. Uncover Roman Mosaics at El Jem Museum
Located near the famous El Jem Amphitheatre, the El Jem Museum is a treasure trove of Roman artifacts, offering visitors a deeper understanding of the region’s rich historical and cultural heritage.
The museum is housed in a former colonial mansion, which provides a charming and spacious setting for the impressive collection of mosaics, sculptures, and everyday objects from ancient Thysdrus.
As an observations, most of the tiles and mosaics are in the main building of the museum, but the others are outdoors, we didn’t think it’s worth adventuring in the punishing hot Tunisian sun and so opted to only see the indoors exhibits.
The Roman mosaics at the El Jem Museum are not only a visual delight but also a significant historical resource that offers insights into the art, culture, and daily life of ancient Roman Thysdrus.
This place reminded us of the mosaics museum in Paphos, Cyprus. Not only because of the mosaics but also because of the heat 🙂
By uncovering these masterpieces, visitors can connect with the rich legacy of the Roman Empire and appreciate the enduring beauty of its artistic traditions.
A visit to the El Jem Museum is a journey through time, revealing the splendor and sophistication of Roman North Africa.
4. Have an Ice-Cream in Port El Kantaoui On the Way Back
Port El Kantaoui is a popular resort area located just north of Sousse, Tunisia. Built in 1979, it was designed as a purpose-built tourist center, featuring a picturesque marina, upscale hotels, and a variety of restaurants and shops.
The marina, styled in a charming Mediterranean fashion, can accommodate luxury yachts and offers a range of water sports and activities. Port El Kantaoui is also known for its beautiful beaches, vibrant nightlife, and an 18-hole golf course, making it a favorite destination for both relaxation and adventure.
On the way back Hedi was kind enough to propose we take a stroll by the marina and enjoy some time there. We had an ice cream sundae at one of the local ice cream parlours and then went back to the car.
Overall, a very nice way to end your trip and to reflect on the wonderful experiences that day.
5. Practical Tips
Timing and Itinerary
- Best Times to Visit: The ideal times to visit Kairouan and El Jem are during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is pleasant and temperatures are moderate. Avoid the peak summer months (June to August) as it can get extremely hot.
- Suggested Itinerary: Start your day early in Kairouan to explore the Great Mosque and the medina before the crowds arrive. After lunch, head to El Jem to visit the amphitheatre and the museum. This itinerary allows you to make the most of your day while avoiding the midday heat.
Transportation
- Getting There:
- By Car: Renting a car is a convenient option, giving you the flexibility to explore at your own pace. The drive from Tunis/North Tunisia to Kairouan takes about 2 hours, and from Kairouan to El Jem, it’s another 1.5 hours.
- Public Transport: Buses and louages (shared taxis) are available from major cities like Tunis and Sousse to Kairouan. From Kairouan, you can take another bus or louage to El Jem. Check the schedules in advance as they may vary.
- Guided Tours: Consider booking a guided tour that includes transportation, entrance fees, and a knowledgeable guide. This can be a hassle-free way to experience both locations.
Tickets
- Keep your ticket: The ticket for Kairouan gives you access to six different attractions (we managed to visit 3 of these). The ticket for El Jem gives you access to two attractions and we visited both of them.
What to Bring?
- Comfortable Clothing and Shoes: Wear lightweight, breathable clothing and comfortable walking shoes, as you will be exploring both historical sites on foot. A scarf for the ladies is recommended too.
- Sun Protection: Bring a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen to protect yourself from the sun, especially if you’re visiting during the warmer months.
- Water and Snacks: Carry a reusable water bottle and some snacks to keep yourself hydrated and energized throughout the day.
- Camera: Don’t forget your camera or smartphone to capture the stunning architecture and scenic views.
6. Final Thoughts
We really enjoyed our time on this trip and felt that we discovered Tunisia. We learned much about Tunisian history and the legacy the many civilisations left that lived here.
From the hot desert weather of Kairouan to the wonderful breezy Port El-Kantaoui we had a day trip to remember, and remember it we will for sure.
We would gladly recommend you take this tour to uncover Tunisia in all it’s rough splendour.
Ready to book? Below are some recommendations to get your trip started:
- Flights – we use flight aggregators such as Skyscanner and Google flights to find the best options. You can find more information about finding cheap flights here.
- Accommodation – would recommend booking your accommodation through an aggregator such as Booking.com, Trip.com or Agoda to get the best rates. We also use TripAdvisor to read reviews.
- Transport – consider Rentalcars.com for car renting or if you rely on public transport, you can use Omio for trains, coaches, ferries, airport transfers and even flights.
- Activities – a great option is GetYourGuide, Klook or Viator for tours, excursions, experiences and tickets to many tourist attractions.
- Travel money – we have Starling Bank accounts (UK residents only) with 0% fees on FX and a good Mastercard exchange rate. Revolut is another good option.
- Internet abroad – with Airalo or Nomad you can access a wide range of eSIMs (digital SIM cards) available for different countries and regions.
- Luggage storage – if you need to store your bags whilst exploring the destination, you can use Radical Storage to find your closest luggage storage and enjoy your journey until the very end.
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