Looking for a slower-paced, cultural escape in Bulgaria? We spent 1 week exploring Veliko Tarnovo and the surrounding towns and villages during winter — from cobbled lanes in Tryavna to quiet monasteries and hidden caves. Here’s how we did it, with plenty of day trips, scenic drives, and warming local meals along the way.
Overview
Central Bulgaria often flies under the radar, but it’s one of those regions where you can slow down, enjoy cobbled streets, sip local ales, and explore natural wonders — all without the crowds.
We explored the area with Hristina’s sister during winter and loved how peaceful everything felt. Here’s how we spent our few days wandering through Bozhentsi, Tryavna, and beyond.
How to Get to Central Bulgaria?
We started our trip from Popovo, where Hristina’s parents live. If you’re flying in, the closest airports are in Bucharest (Romania), Sofia, or Plovdiv — with car hire being the best option for flexibility.
We’ve often seen well-priced flights from London. If you are looking for suitable flight options, make sure to check out this article with top tips on how to find cheap flights.
Trains and buses do connect some of the towns, but to really make the most of the region, driving is your best bet.
We also used a train from Veliko Tarnovo on the way back BUT we really do not recommend the Bulgarian trains. They get you from point A to point B but they are old, tired and most times behind schedule.
Best Time to Visit Central Bulgaria
We visited Central Bulgaria in winter, and honestly, we loved how quiet and peaceful everything felt. The cobbled streets of Bozhentsi and Tryavna had a calm charm, and places like Bacho Kiro Cave and Dryanovo Monastery were refreshingly free from crowds.
That said, each season brings something different:
- Spring (April–June): Great for hiking, wildflowers, and mild temperatures. Villages feel alive but not overrun.
- Summer (July–August): The region gets warmer and busier, especially in Veliko Tarnovo. Good for festivals and longer daylight hours.
- Autumn (September–October): Possibly the most photogenic time to visit. The hills are covered in golden foliage, and it’s still warm enough to explore comfortably.
- Winter (November–March): A quieter, more atmospheric experience. Expect some snow in the higher regions, especially around Bozhentsi and Arbanasi. It’s ideal if you’re after non-touristy things to do in Bulgaria.
If you’re after a peaceful, local experience — winter was perfect for us. Just pack warm layers and embrace the slower pace.
Finances & Budgeting for Your Trip to Central Bulgaria
One of the great things about travelling in Central Bulgaria is how affordable everything is — especially when compared to more Western European destinations. From meals out to boutique hotels and entrance fees, your money really does go further here.
The local currency is the Bulgarian Lev (BGN). At the time of writing, 1 GBP gets you roughly 2.20 BGN, though rates can fluctuate slightly. We’d recommend checking the latest rates before you travel and avoiding airport exchanges, which tend to have poor rates.
One thing to note is that the Lev is pegged to the Euro so the exchange rate will always be 1 Euro : 1.95 Levs.
Most places — even in smaller towns like Tryavna and Bozhentsi — accept credit and debit cards, especially in restaurants, hotels, and supermarkets. We used our Starling Bank card, which has 0% fees on foreign transactions, and it worked seamlessly across the whole trip. If you’re using a UK bank, it’s worth checking what charges (if any) you might face abroad.
For more tips on how to stretch your budget without compromising on experience, check out our article:
Read More: Smart Budgeting: Maximise Your Travel Funds
Our Central Bulgaria Winter Itinerary
Day 1: Wandering the White-Timber Streets of Bozhentsi
We kicked things off in Bozhentsi, a beautifully preserved architectural reserve. The village, with its classic white walls and timber-framed houses, feels like walking through a living museum.
In winter, it was especially peaceful — just us, the crunch of snow underfoot, and a few friendly locals going about their day.
We spent the day slowly exploring the winding streets, taking photos of the traditional Bulgarian Revival-style architecture, and popping into the small local museum.
Bozhentsi is perfect if you’re after non-touristy things to do in Bulgaria and want to experience a slower, more traditional pace of life.
Day 2: Staying in Tryavna – Clock Towers, Carpets, and Craft Ale
After Bozhentsi, we drove over to Tryavna, where we stayed the night. For dinner, we tucked into hearty dishes at Tryavna Beer House Luc’s, which also gave us the chance to try a variety of local ales — a lovely surprise and great for warming up on a winter night.
The next morning, we strolled through the centre of town. Our highlights:
- Tryavna Clock Tower – the town’s landmark and great for photos.
- Daskalov House Museum – admire unique wood carved ceilings in Tryavna.
- Church Saint-George, quiet and atmospheric.
- A walk through the old cobbled streets, where we found several souvenir shops selling handmade crafts. From intricate carpets to tiny wooden trinkets, it felt like a celebration of Bulgarian folk culture.
Tryavna felt like a small open-air museum — perfect for a relaxed morning before heading into the hills.
🏨 Where We Stayed in Tryavna: Hotel Familia
Day 3: Bacho Kiro Cave and Dryanovo Monastery
From Tryavna, we made our way to Bacho Kiro Cave — one of the more adventurous stops on our itinerary. The cave winds deep into the limestone rock, with a mix of narrow passages and larger chambers. It’s well-lit and accessible, even in winter, though it can be quite chilly inside.
After exploring the cave, we followed a scenic 30-minute trail that took us to Dryanovo Monastery. Surrounded by forest and cliffs, it’s a peaceful place, and while modest in scale, it felt grounded and authentic.
This part of the journey was great for nature lovers and ideal if you’re looking for free things to do in Bulgaria that blend both spirituality and landscape.
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Days 4-8: Veliko Tarnovo & Arbanasi
From Dryanovo, we drove to Veliko Tarnovo — one of Bulgaria’s most historic cities. We’ve written a full guide to Veliko Tarnovo and how we spent a week around New Year’s, but we’d definitely recommend visiting:
- Tsarevets Fortress
- Samovodska Charshia Street
- The Monument of the Asenevtsi
- Local Restaurants which are some of the best in Bulgaria
🏨 Where We Stayed in Veliko Tarnovo: Yantra Grand Hotel
Arbanasi (1 Day): A Peaceful Escape Above Veliko Tarnovo
While staying in Veliko Tarnovo, we carved out a few hours to visit Arbanasi, a small village perched on a plateau just a short drive away.
To get there we simply took a taxi from the old centre of Veliko Tarnovo which was around $4-5. Alternatively, there are some public buses which take you there but for the 15 minute drive we didn’t see much point.
The village is known for its stone houses and Orthodox churches, many of which date back to the 17th century. The architecture here is different from other towns in Central Bulgaria — the houses have thick stone walls and small wooden windows, built as much for defence as for aesthetics. It gives the whole place a fortified, almost secluded feel.
One of the highlights was walking through the narrow cobbled lanes, which were particularly charming in the winter light. With fewer visitors around, it felt like we had the village almost to ourselves.
We popped into a couple of the churches (there are over a dozen), and while many are modest from the outside, they’re surprisingly rich inside with intricate frescoes and iconography.
We wrapped up our visit with a warm, slow meal at Park Hotel Sevastokrator, which has a restaurant with panoramic views over Veliko Tarnovo and Tsarevets Fortress.
As the sun began to set, the golden light spilling over the hills and castle grounds was easily one of the most memorable scenes from our trip. It’s one of those moments where you don’t feel rushed — just full, cosy, and content.
If you’re visiting Veliko Tarnovo, we’d absolutely recommend including Arbanasi as a half-day trip. It’s close enough to feel easy, yet distinct enough to feel like a completely different world.
Final Thoughts
If you’re planning a winter trip to Central Bulgaria, this route offers a great mix of quiet historical towns, caves and monasteries, and just enough nature to balance it all out. It’s not the sort of place packed with international tourists — which, to us, made it all the more appealing.
Whether you’re travelling from Sofia or already nearby like us, places like Bozhentsi, Tryavna, Bacho Kiro Cave, and Veliko Tarnovo are a reminder of Bulgaria’s charm and depth. We’ll definitely be back to explore even more.
Ready to book? Below are some recommendations to get your trip started:
- Flights – we use flight aggregators such as Skyscanner and Google flights to find the best options. You can find more information about finding cheap flights here.
- Accommodation – would recommend booking your accommodation through an aggregator such as Booking.com, Trip.com or Agoda to get the best rates. We also use TripAdvisor to read reviews.
- Transport – consider Rentalcars.com for car renting or if you rely on public transport, you can use Omio for trains, coaches, ferries, airport transfers and even flights.
- Activities – a great option is GetYourGuide, Klook or Viator for tours, excursions, experiences and tickets to many tourist attractions.
- Travel money – we have Starling Bank accounts (UK residents only) with 0% fees on FX and a good Mastercard exchange rate. Revolut is another good option.
- Travel insurance – check SafetyWing for travel medical insurance that works for you and your specific needs.
- Internet abroad – with Airalo or Nomad you can access a wide range of eSIMs (digital SIM cards) available for different countries and regions.
- Luggage storage – if you need to store your bags whilst exploring the destination, you can use Radical Storage to find your closest luggage storage and enjoy your journey until the very end.
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