Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria’s historic capital, is a town rich in medieval charm, scenic landscapes, and cultural heritage. Perched along the Yantra River, this former stronghold of the Second Bulgarian Empire boasts cobbled streets, a majestic fortress, and vibrant markets.

Whether you’re strolling through Samovodska Charshia, marvelling at the Tsarevets Fortress, or indulging in authentic Bulgarian cuisine, this town offers a unique blend of history and modern hospitality.

Overview

Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria’s historic capital, is a picturesque town known for its medieval charm, cobbled streets, and stunning hilltop fortress. Nestled along the Yantra River, this hidden gem offers a blend of rich history, vibrant culture, and breathtaking landscapes.

Whether you’re wandering through ancient streets, exploring impressive fortresses, or indulging in traditional Bulgarian cuisine, Veliko Tarnovo promises a memorable experience.

If you are looking for a longer stay with the potential to explore nearby towns and villages, check out our 1 week itinerary around Central Bulgaria.

Travel to and Around Veliko Tarnovo

Travelling to Veliko Tarnovo

Veliko Tarnovo is well-connected by road and rail, making it accessible from major Bulgarian cities such as Sofia, Plovdiv, and Varna. The nearest airport is in Gorna Oryahovitsa, about 10 km away, but most international travellers arrive via Sofia Airport and take a bus or train to the town. Alternatively, Bucharest-Otopeni Airport is another viable option, providing access to much of northern Bulgaria.

There may be plans in the future to open the Gorna Oryahovitsa airport to passenger travel however, at this stage it is purely a cargo airport. Direct buses from Sofia take around three hours, while the train journey offers a scenic but slower alternative.

We also used a train from Veliko Tarnovo on the way back BUT we really do not recommend the Bulgarian trains. They get you from point A to point B but they are old, tired and most times behind schedule.

Travelling Around Veliko Tarnovo

Walking is the best way to explore Veliko Tarnovo’s compact centre, where most attractions are within easy reach. However, for visiting nearby areas such as Arbanasi or Mini-Bulgaria Park, taxis and local buses are available.

Renting a car can also be a convenient option for exploring the region at your own pace.

In the old city centre, we chose to mostly walk to all places as we found it to be quite accessible. Similar to Rome and Lisbon, the city is located on hills so a certain level of fitness may be required if going on foot.

Where to Stay in Veliko Tarnovo?

If you prefer to stay in a hotel, we would recommend booking your accommodation through an aggregator such as Booking.com or Trip.com to get the best rates. Use the widget below to find the best accommodation in Veliko Tarnovo for your specific dates.

Veliko Tarnovo offers a range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly hostels to boutique hotels with stunning views of the fortress and river. Popular choices include:

• Yantra Grand Hotel – A historic hotel offering luxury stays with panoramic views. This is where we stood and really enjoyed our stay as you get a perfect view of the citadel.
• Boutique Hotel & Spa Tsarevets – Perfect for those seeking a charming and comfortable stay.
• Hostel Mostel – A great budget-friendly option for backpackers.

Best Time to Visit Veliko Tarnovo

The best time to visit is during spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October), when the weather is pleasant, and the town is less crowded.

Summer can be quite warm, but it is also when many festivals take place, such as the Sound and Light Show at Tsarevets Fortress. On a separate trip, we went during August and found it packed with people, however, it’s a great opportunity to enjoy the culture and the sunny terraces the city has to offer.

Winter brings a picturesque snowy landscape, but some attractions may have reduced hours. We went during the New Year’s period to celebrate the New Year and found most of the attractions to be open although on a reduced schedule.

Whilst mornings were brisk, later during the day it felt warm. Whilst not quite T-shirt weather, you could get away with a light spring jacket.

Depending on when you visit, you don’t really need to book attractions in advance and can buy tickets on the spot.

Card payments are widely accepted, and we found that we didn’t need any cash. We used our 0% fee cards throughout this trip to make sure we always got the better rates. Read more here about managing your finances when travelling.

Things to do in Veliko Tarnovo

Here are our recommendations for things to do in Veliko Tarnovo to truly explore this amazing city.

1. Explore Samovodska Charshia Market

Wander through this traditional crafts market, where you’ll find local artisans selling handmade souvenirs, pottery, and traditional Bulgarian sweets.

We really enjoyed the street and although perhaps out of season since, most shops were closed, the street did offer a charming vibe, with wooden statues set up and down the street, animating it.

At the end of the street, in the small square leading to the Monkey House, there is a bakery, making their own kadaif. It’s a great opportunity to stop and enjoy some fresh made kadaif pastries whilst savouring the moment.

Here you will also find plenty of restaurants, one good one we looked out for was Han Hadji Nikoli Restaurant but we never got round to going there. Let us know in the comments if you’ve been there and what you thought of it.

2. Visit the Monument of Mother Bulgaria

This impressive monument, located in the city centre, pays tribute to Bulgarian soldiers and is an important historical landmark.

It’s situated right in a square with a park, which connects old Veliko Tarnovo and the new part of the city. You can’t miss it, especially if you are venturing beyond the old town.

3. Admire the Monument of the Assen Dynasty

Standing majestically on the banks of the Yantra River, this monument honours the medieval rulers who played a significant role in Bulgaria’s history.

We found it to be also a great spot to see the Old Town as you get to see the terraces right in front of you.

4. Walk Across Stambolov Bridge

Offering one of the best views of Veliko Tarnovo, this pedestrian bridge is a great spot for photography, especially at sunset.

5. Stroll Along Street General Gurko

This charming street lined with traditional houses and cafes offers a glimpse into the town’s old-world charm.

As we were walking on the street, the architecture really took you back to a bygone era. The houses are very well maintained and really give you a sense that they’ve been there since forever.

Ever so often there are some terraces which open up to the valley beneath. There are benches lined up on the street and we sat down on a few occasions to simply soak in the views.

Naturally, there are a few restaurants, hotels and cafes on the street, which give you the opportunity to enjoy a drink or a meal with the views.

If you are coming from the Monument of the Assen Dynasty then the ascent isn’t too steep, which makes it quite leisurely.

6. Experience the Museum of Illusions

A fun and interactive museum featuring optical illusions and trick art, perfect for visitors of all ages. Overall, it’s a good few hours to enjoy, however, most illusions are simple gimmicks anyone might’ve seen on most social media channels.

It might be a great treat if you are with small kids but overall, you could equally skip this. It was around 10 euros the ticket, which was by far the most expensive out of all the attraction.

7. Visit the Cathedral Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno

An architectural masterpiece, this cathedral is known for its stunning frescoes and impressive interior.

Another reason to consider coming here is because of it’s front row view of the citadel once you go behind the cathedral. It’s a great opportunity to takes some good quality photos, unhindered and unobstructed by other tourists or buildings.

8. Admire Trapezitsa Fortress

If you go behind the cathedral, you can enjoy some nice views towards Trapezitsa Fortress. Perched on a hill overlooking the Yantra River, Trapezitsa Fortress offers a fascinating glimpse into Bulgaria’s medieval past.

Once a royal and religious stronghold, its recently restored ruins, ancient churches, and panoramic views make it a rewarding stop for history lovers and curious travellers alike.

9. Discover Mini-Bulgaria Park

This unique attraction features miniature replicas of Bulgaria’s most famous landmarks, making it a great place to learn about the country’s rich heritage.

The park is accessible by public transport however, everyone (including ourselves) seem to choose to walk till there as the walk is a very impressive stroll along the walls of the Tsarevets citadel.

We really had a playful morning when visiting as we remembered our past trips and enjoyed seeing the landmarks in miniature.

Whilst some landmarks are a bit stale and not necessarily the most representative such as some simple blocs posing as hotels for Golden Sands, others are really great works of art including the Sofia landmarks and many others.

We would suggest you allow at least 2 hours and if you haven’t explored many of those places, it could serve as a great wish-list for the future.

10. Visit the Holy Forty Martyrs Church

The Holy Forty Martyrs Church is a medieval Eastern Orthodox church built in 1230 in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria, which was once the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire. This elongated basilica features six columns, three semicircular apses, and a narrow narthex on its western side.

The church houses some of the most important historical records of the Bulgarian Empire, including Omurtag’s Column, Asen’s Column, and the Border Column from Rodosto, dating back to the reign of Khan Krum.

These columns were placed in the church by Ivan Asen II as an homage to his powerful ancestors.

Overall, we really enjoyed our visit and found the gardens to be very tranquil. Sitting here for a few minutes really clears your mind and sets you for the day.

Getting to the church can be a 30 minute walk from the old city centre however, there are public buses. We chose to walk however, the ascend back to the old town can be quite taxing and may require some level of fitness.

We wouldn’t recommend it however to go on foot, if you have a child with you as the sidewalk is quite narrow and cars pass by at regular intervals.

11. Cross the Vladishki Bridge

One of the oldest bridges in Veliko Tarnovo, offering scenic views and a peaceful atmosphere. The bridge, is made out of wood, and still has the original timber bought from Romania when it was first raised.

On the bridge we really enjoyed seeing the Tsarevets Fortress on one side and then Arbanasi on the other with the river passing under us. Shame there weren’t any coffee shops nearby to sit down and truly soak in the views.

12. Explore Tsarevets Fortress

The town’s most famous landmark, Tsarevets Fortress, was once the stronghold of the Bulgarian Empire during the Second Bulgarian Empire (1185–1396). Serving as the political and spiritual centre of medieval Bulgaria, the fortress housed the royal palace, the Patriarchal Cathedral, and numerous churches and residential buildings.

It was the heart of resistance against the Byzantine Empire and later the Ottomans. The fortress was ultimately captured in 1393 after a prolonged siege by the Ottoman Empire, marking the end of Bulgarian rule.

Today, the restored ruins, coupled with the spectacular Sound and Light Show, offer visitors an immersive journey into the town’s storied past.

The ascent is fairly steep and you should wear adequate shoes. The road is made up of gravel in some parts and other parts are with cobble stone.

Once you reach the top where the cathedral is, you are simply met with one of the best views you can possibly hope for. We suggest you sit down on one of the benches at the top and soak in the wonderful panoramas.

Once you are set, feel free to explore the rest of the citadel. Whilst most of the area is simply reconstructed foundations, there are some rebuilt buildings to show a glimpse of the past.

Some level of fitness is needed as you can run out of breath quite quickly. The hike to the top is quite intense, whilst not similar to portions of the Great Wall of China, still it mustn’t be underestimated.

13. Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension

Located within the fortress, this restored cathedral features modern frescoes depicting Bulgaria’s turbulent history. Your ticket for the Tsarevets Fortress will include access to the cathedral also.

It’s a very modern take on an Orthodox church and may not impress everyone. However, since you’ve climbed all this way up, it’s still worth going in, especially as there is no entrance fee.

The cathedral is actually of much historical significance, since this was the first Patriarchial Orthodox Cathedral outside Constantinopole.

The paintings inside, depict biblical scenes but in a very non-conformist style. A very intriguing artistic take for sure.

14. Visit the Museum of the Revival and Constituent Assembly

This museum provides insight into Bulgaria’s path to independence and the creation of its first constitution. It’s mostly in Bulgarian, so foreign tourists might not get much value out of it.

It’s a great opportunity if you know Bulgarian to learn more about Bulgarian history.

15. Watch The “Sound and Light” show

If you are lucky enough to visit during the “Sound and Light” show projection, do not miss it! It’s a real highlight.

The “Sound and Light” show at Tsarevets Fortress is a captivating audiovisual performance that narrates Bulgaria’s medieval history through dramatic music, synchronised lights, lasers, and bell chimes.

The show transforms the fortress into a dynamic canvas, offering an unforgettable experience. We got to enjoy this from the restaurant of Yantra Grand Hotel and it was absolutely amazing!

16. Take a Half-Day Trip to Arbanasi

Just a short drive from Veliko Tarnovo, this historic village is known for its well-preserved houses, monasteries, and panoramic views.

We simply took a taxi from our hotel and for a few dollars we got to the village. You can simply do the same on the way back also. There are some public busses but we didn’t feel it was a good use of our time to wait.

The village itself is not big, and there are a few places one can visit. Here we saw two monasteries, however, note there are more: St. Nikolay the Miracleworker and Church of the Nativity.

Both were fairly well preserved and offered a very impressive set of paintings. After strolling through the old streets of Arbanasi we had lunch at Park Hotel, overlooking Veliko Tarnovo. We describe our experience in the Top Restaurants section.

We really enjoyed seeing the clouds passing by Tsarevets fortress, a picture to remember.

Top Restaurants in Veliko Tarnovo

Veliko Tarnovo boasts a wide variety of restaurants, amongst the best in the country, offering classic Bulgarian cuisine ranging from kebabs and salads to hearty sach dishes.

If you’re dining with a Bulgarian, it’s almost a tradition to order a salad along with the local spirit, rakia. Don’t be surprised if the menu dedicates multiple pages just to salads—Bulgarians truly love their greens!

Another thing to keep in mind: meals are more about socialising than just eating, so take your time and enjoy the conversation. Sharing plates, similar to tapas, are quite popular, and ordering a parlenka—a flatbread topped with cheese or garlic butter—is always a great idea for the table. After all, you’re on holiday—you deserve the indulgence!

Below is a list of places we tried during our trip to Veliko Tarnovo:

1. Try Modern Bulgarian Food at Shtastliveca

Restaurant Shtastliveca is one of the town’s most popular restaurants, offers delicious Bulgarian and European dishes with stunning views.

It’s one of the top restaurants in the city (full stop). There are several branches in the country however, this one is the original one. We have also visited the one in Sofia.

It’s that good, we went there a few times to sample some of their many items. Some of the highlights are the pork in cheese sauce. I had it with rosemary baked potatoes. This combination was divine. The oozy cheese combined with he tender pork were a match made in heaven.

We also had a goat’s cheese platter with local charcuterie cuts. The exciting part was the way it was presented and served. It can under a cattle bell, upon serving the waiter rings the bell.

It does get everyone’s attention, for sure!

But la pièce de résistance you may ask? The Shtastliveca Kavarma stew is simply one of the best stews I tried in my life. It comes as a sharer for two, which was great considering we were all day out exploring. The flatbread is home made and once you dip it into that rich tomato sauce you are simply transported to heaven.

The meats, particularly the pork in cheese sauce and the Kavarma stew, are cooked to perfection, bursting with flavour and tenderness. Every dish served in this restaurant showcases meticulous attention to detail and traditional Bulgarian culinary expertise. It was one of the best dishes we had during our trip!

2. Eat some Modern Cuisine at Restaurant Asenevtsi

Restaurant Asenevtsi is a great spot to try modern traditional Bulgarian cuisine in a cosy setting. It’s another great restaurant similar to Shtastliveca which offers a really great choice of foods.

There are also plenty of international options for those who can’t make up their minds. I tried the pork ribs in honey mustard served with mash and a goat’s cheese wrapped in kaddaif pastry with pistachio. Think Dubai chocolate but goat’s cheese edition.

Overall, a great dining experience, however, the pork did feel a bit chewy since, they didn’t remove the sinew. If you are in the area seeing the Monument of the Assen Dynasty, it’s a great idea to stop by for lunch.

3. Pizza with a View at EGO pizza & grill (The Old Town branch)

EGO pizza & grill is perfect for a casual meal with a mix of Bulgarian and international options. We had the Quattro Formaggi and a mix of salami, ham and some other toppings pizza.

For us though, although the pizza was good, but nothing to write home about, it really is the views. We really think it’s simply worth coming to have a lunch and simply savour the views with it.

4. Eat above the Clouds at Park Hotel Sevastokrator Restaurant

Known for its excellent service and delicious traditional dishes, located in the scenic village of Arbanasi, Park Hotel Sevastokrator is a very nice restaurant that looks cozy and inviting.

It’s all set in a wooden planked wall with various bits of décor. Very tasteful and quite inviting. Having said this, outside is the place you may want to sit during a sunny day.

Here you can truly admire the view of Valiko Tarnovo with the fortress sitting proud on the hill.

We had the Bulgarian Salad (Shopska Salad) served with trout and fries. The food was pretentious but so were we. Overall, it was cooked well with perhaps the fish a bit too charred for my liking.

5. Have a Balkan Pizza at Pizza Bianco Bar & Grill

Pizza Bianco Bar & Grill is a fantastic choice for those looking for modern cuisine in a stylish setting. We were invited by some local friends to come and dine at this restaurant with them.

There is another branch which is closer to the old city centre by the Monument of Mother Bulgaria, which you may consider as an alternative.

The restaurant is great and the décor combined with the ambience forms a modern, stylish but inviting atmosphere. Service is also very prompt however, you may want to order things as you want them to arrive.

We would suggest you order your starters, and only after finishing your first course, order your second course.

We had a selection of salads. I had the goat’s cheese salad with dressing, followed by the Balkan Pizza. I must say, if the Balkans were a pizza, this pizza would represent it well. It had loads of local cured meats which gave it a very rich meaty flavour.

The pizza base was equally great, all made in house and baked fresh to order. Hristina had the trout with vegetables which looked equally good.

Overall, an outstanding great dinner.

6. Have a Sweet Pastry Break at “Bakery for Kadaif”

Walking down the Charshia Market, a must-visit for dessert lovers is Bakery for Kadaif, serving the best kadaif (a traditional Bulgarian sweet – barrowed from the Turks) in town.

It doesn’t offer just kadaif pastries and you can buy baklava or other similar middle eastern desserts.

We had a selection of pastries including baklava, we found that the consistency was not the same. Some were crispy and full of nuts, others not so much. We think it’s down to different people preparing the pastry desserts.

Nonetheless, it’s an excellent and decadent treat for those exploring the city and wondering where to stop for a sweat break.

7. Treat yourself at Amaretto (Сладкопекарна Amaretto)

Amaretto is both a pastry shop and a bakery. It offers a great selection of sandwiches, savoury and sweet pastries but also freshly squeezed juices. It definitely is a one stop shop for all your sweet cravings.

I had the mango delice and Hristina had the cherry-cheesecake tart. Both were very well done, felt fresh and with an excellent balance between sweetness and fruit.

Whilst the order did take quite a bit to prepare, particularly the juices, the treats were great and worth coming again for another visit. Note this place is self-service only.

Final Thoughts

Veliko Tarnovo is a destination that seamlessly blends history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re exploring its ancient fortresses, admiring breathtaking river views, or indulging in authentic Bulgarian cuisine, this charming town has something for everyone.

If you’re planning a trip to Bulgaria, don’t miss the chance to discover the magic of Veliko Tarnovo!

---

As an Amazon Associate and member of various other affiliate programmes, some of the links in this article are affiliate links, meaning at no additional cost to you, we will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase.

---

Like what you’ve read? Subscribe to our blog by adding your email address below. You’ll be the first to hear about new destinations and articles we publish!

Are you interested in travelling? Check out our Facebook page and other social media for regular tips and recommendations on how to travel and where to go!

• Facebook
• Instagram
• YouTube
• Pinterest
• LinkedIn